Buy Fox Racing Shox Complete Shock Kit. POLARIS RZR 900/1000S Fox Podium 2.0' Shock Rebuild Seal Kit (Front/Rear) Pair. The Amazon page doesn't say that this is. Product: bumper, jounce - Fox shock, Item #: AL109025, Condition: New. Product: Shock Rebuild Kit, 9200 series, Item #: AL253188, Condition: New.

Yes, they're nitrogen charged. Yes, special tools are required. The procedure is basic, if you're familiar with the internals of a shock absorber.

Somebody with mechanical aptitude and good attention to detail can easily learn to do it. The initial cost of special tools is the limiting factor for most people. Beyond common shop tools, a person needs to own or have access to a nitrogen cylinder, regulator, hose, and needle filler valve. Also a caliper or IFP depth tool is required. A general idea of the required tools can be found here: http://www.deycore.com/tools.htm. Yes, they're nitrogen charged. Yes, special tools are required.

The procedure is basic, if you're familiar with the internals of a shock absorber. Somebody with mechanical aptitude and good attention to detail can easily learn to do it. The initial cost of special tools is the limiting factor for most people. Beyond common shop tools, a person needs to own or have access to a nitrogen cylinder, regulator, hose, and needle filler valve. Also a caliper or IFP depth tool is required. A general idea of the required tools can be found here: Thanks for the response JD.

The special tooling, knowledge, and cost of the tools sure leads people to get them rebuilt by someone experienced. Thanks again for the help. Loosen air screw on bottom to let pressure out. If oil comes out, the IFP seal needs to be replaced. Remove cap and shaft. Dump out oil.

Use an air compressor to get out the IFP. Blow air through the air screw opening.

Clean eveything with Brake Cleaner. Install new seals if needed 6. Set IFP in shock, adjust to correct depth.

See Deycore.com for depth and parts, and tools. I just bought something yesterday from him. I fill the area below the IFP with oil to keep it from moving when you install the shaft. Not sure if this is the correct way but I do it. Move shaft up and down to get any air bubbles to the top. Tighten cap and oil will overflow over the top. Methuen handbook of colors buy used cars. Dump out oil below the IFP.

Slowly compress the shock as not to move the IFP. Charge with nitrogen to appropriate level. There's my 12 step program. Not to be confused with my other 12-step progam I attend weekly! J/K I'm sure others have their own way, but I figured it out on my own with some helpful internet reading. I am no expert whatsoever.

Yes, they're nitrogen charged. Yes, special tools are required. The procedure is basic, if you're familiar with the internals of a shock absorber. Somebody with mechanical aptitude and good attention to detail can easily learn to do it. The initial cost of special tools is the limiting factor for most people. Beyond common shop tools, a person needs to own or have access to a nitrogen cylinder, regulator, hose, and needle filler valve.

Also a caliper or IFP depth tool is required. A general idea of the required tools can be found here: +10 for deycore. Unless a guy is going to be rebuilding several sets of shocks every year, it does not seem to pay to buy all the tools. Esp at his prices. But then again, if a guy did buy his own tools, there would be NO excuse not to rebuild them yearly!!!! Dman's 12 steps are pretty good. On the newer style shocks with the non-removable bottom, I also fill the IFP with oil, to 'hydraulically lock' its position.

I have one question for Dman, or anybody else that knows. When you reinstall the head (cap, bearing head, whatever you call it), how do you thread it all the way in with the IFP locked? The seal will pop out of the body, or the head won't thread in all the way because there is no room for the displaced oil. I always end up emptying the oil below the IFP before the head is fully seated. How do you guys do it?

I've never had that problem you are speaking of JD. When I'm tightening the cap, the shock rod rises as I continue to tighten the cap. That apparently lessens the pressure in the shock so no seals blow.

I guess all you are really doing is replacing the oil with the valving assembly on the rod, therefore, there should be very little pressure in the shock itself. Are you holding down the shock rod as you tighten? Once I have the cap tightened, I remove the oil below the IFP and slowly compress the shock as to not move the IFP, then I charge with the rod all the way in. Just remember, I'm self taught.

Just did about 8 this weekend and worked great. Next shock, I'll make a tutorial.